New Zealand - Long Version!!!

Okay, you asked for it!!! Decisions, decisions, decisions. When we were planning for our Around the World trip, because there is so much to see and do in this world, we had to decide what the purpose of our trip was going to be and where we wanted to go. Well, to some that may seem like a hard decision, but for us, that was not a problem.......hiking, and as much of it as we can do, was what we wanted to do. We wanted to experience the countries from walking and for New Zealand, there is just no other way to do it!!! Although we did want to plan some of our trip, we certainly wanted to leave time and space for the spontaneous. There were 4 main tramps that we wanted to do and had to be booked a year in advance. As I said before, not knowing much about NZ and/or the tramps, we just made a choice. For the 4 hikes that we wanted to do that required pre-booking, we did them from south to north, the decision making was as simple as that - who knew what else to do????? The only other factor, was that we knew that we wanted to maximize our "good weather" chances & that meant, doing the tramps earlier on in our trip. Everything else was left up to Mother Nature and luck......there was nothing else we could do.....and turns out, not a bad choice at all. Here is how it all went......the first part anyways........

February 8 to 11, 2010, Kepler Track, our first tramp in New Zealand. The bus picked us up at 8:30am to drop us off at the trail head. On our way we picked up a German family (parents and son) and a young German girl.......how did we know that so soon.....I had Delia with me, remember.....our little "Space Invader" - there were smiles and introductions before they even sat down *grin* - this is a good thing! The Kepler Track was actually the closest to Bob and Maxine's and to the town of Te Anau - you could actually walk there from town if you wanted to. The weather was a little overcast, but the Bus Driver assured us that we were in for a great day - I wasn't going to argue with him....you know me, I always take the positive side!!! Once we got dropped off at the start, we grabbed our bags and got ready to head out.....tightening a strap here, loosening a strap there, jiggling around the pack a bit and then it was "ready, setty goey"! When we were getting ready, the young girl that arrived with us in the bus, struck up a conversation. Even though she could have threw her pack on and ran down the trail, she took her time and would once in awhile look our way, pretend to adjust her pack and look our way again. I was watching her, but all I could think was....,"this young chicklet could not possibly want to hike with us old folks, could she...????". Although we did not figure it out right away, turns out that she really did - very cute! We started up the track and it didn't take long before we were enjoying the first views of the Kepler and the views of New Zealand's south island - the hiker's dream! We changed positions with the German girl throughout the first part of the hike until we started to climb the ridge. Part way up the hill, when Delia and I were gasping for air and took a short break, she stopped with us and we introduced ourselves - Katie was her name. A teacher travelling alone in NZ to improve her English skills - here English was pretty close to perfection in my ears. For the rest of the day, we hiked with Katie, sharing stories and having a laugh or two as we suffered up the mountain together. The first part of the Kepler track was actually fairly flat until you reach Brod Bay and from here you start to climb. It was here at Brod Bay that we did get our first real taste of the dreaded New Zealand Sand Flies. I compare them to our Canadian Black Flies. They are really sneaky, pesky little things......and particularly love ankles. When we were reading our Lonely Planet Book; Tramping in New Zealand, they had a part in there that advised hikers to, "buy the most powerful bug spray that you can legally buy"!!!! - funny, but true! I am not one to get bothered by mosquitoes or any biting bug for that matter, as they tend to leave me alone, but no one can escape sand flies - I slathered on the "bug juice" and tried not to scratch at night.....there was nothing else you could do. Sand flies were still not enough to keep me from enjoying the tramp. Besides, they really only get you when you stop - that's the ticket, just don't stop *grin*!!!

As we continued hiking there was another couple on the track. When we went past, the man was putting on bandages on the women's ankles that appeared to be a case of blisters. We gave our sympathy and continued on, but just before we got out of earshot, Delia; in the way that only she knows how, said, "but isn't it sweeter that he is putting the bandages on for you." They chuckled and she answers back, "Most definitely"!!! So from then on, it was Katie, Delia and I and this couple that were not all hiking together, but we were close. The track went up and up and up until we reached an opening, not that far off from the first hut. It was here that Delia met her match. As Delia, Katie and I approached the opening, gasping for air and just about to enjoy the views, a girl looked at us and said, "So, who's bloody idea was this anyways?" It was instant friendship - I could just feel it! We laughed and once we found out they were Kiwi's (father and 2 daughters), well, they had a place in our heart. We jabbed each other about being Kiwi and being Canadian, but it was all in good fun! That's it though, that is why I love New Zealand so much, not only the beauty of the land (which is outstanding), but the people...not that much unlike Canadians. They are kind, generous, fun, great story tellers and teasing for them is as natural as breathing........ahhhh........just like home!!!!

We finally reached Luxmore Hut in the early afternoon. This was our first nights stay. The weather was outstanding and the views were amazing. We sat outside on the deck of the hut and chatted to Margie and Paul (Aussie couple with the blisters), David, Jennifer and Karen (Kiwi family) and of course our "little kid", Kattie. We laughed, ate and took in all the views. The eight of us were fast friends - fabulous group.

So it was Jennifer that warmed Delia's heart by the little sarcastic remark when we met, but when Jennifer, Karen, David and Paul agreed to go up Mount Luxmore with me, I was in absolute heaven - friends that will hike the side trips with me - yeah!!! Although Delia loves to hike, going up and down mountains is not that forgiving on her knees, so for the most part, we do the hike (which, don't get me wrong, is beautiful and hard enough, but I just like to do it all), and not the side trips. So, when Katie and Margie had no interest to go either and were there to entertain Delia ("a happy Delia is a happy Brenda), AND I had company to go up Mount Luxmore, well, do I really need to say more.....New Zealand was already becoming more than I ever dreamed it could be =) So after we all returned back to the hut from our climb up Mount Luxmore, we ate and socialized more. We played cards (yes, Delia is becoming a whole new person with card playing - she is actually enjoying it) and Delia shared her Grand Marnier (just a small flask - we did have to carrying it in you know), which was a hit. This was our first NZ hut experience and I have to say, pretty darn good! They have cooking burners, tables, benches and bunks with mattresses to sleep on - I could get use to that. There is the small matter of "hut sleeping" (aka snoring), that is less than to be desired, but nothing that a pair of eye plugs can't handle!!! The great thing about the Kepler and hiking in New Zealand in general is that you meet fabulous people, but for the most part you are hiking on your own and then you all meet up at the hut to share stories of the day - the best of both worlds really - for us anyways. Day 2 of the Kepler was even more spectacular - the views of the fiords, lakes and the hike along the ridge (very cool), all stunning. As hard as the hike was, I just wanted each moment to last forever. I think that the physically hard part of the Kepler is that on day 1 you climb, day 2 you climb more and then on day 2 still you climb down everything that you climbed up on day 1 and day 2 - yikes!!! As I say, going up is aerobically hard and going down is biomechanically hard - still worth it. I hope that some of the pictures can do it justice, because it truly was beautiful - "take your breath away" beautiful!

The second night we stayed at Iris Burn - okay, funny story here. I have to bring you back to Toronto again (sorry about that). When we were planning our trip in Toronto, we decided that it would probably be better to camp then to stay in the huts - you know, more private, get down to nature kinda' thing, more adventurous, etc. Well, unfortunately we needed our lesson, because in New Zealand, the huts are not a bad way to go - first of all, you don't have to bring a tent, ground sheet or thermarest (aka lighter pack) and second, after meeting the gang and knowing how much fun it is, it was disappointing to camp - somewhat. For the Kepler we could not camp the first or last night, you had to stay in the huts (due to the terrain) - it was only the second night that you could camp, so this is how we booked it. When we reached the hut on day 2, this is when reality sunk in. When you camp you pay a fraction of the price of what you pay when you stay in the hut, so of course, if you camp, "hut privileges" are not extended. This became a joke in our group. Since the rest of the group were staying in the hut and we were camping, we missed out on the antics of the night......or so we thought. As we walked passed the hut towards the water, Katie, Jen and Karen were walking in the other direction towards the hut and this is when Katie proceeded to read us the riot act about campers and hutters, "Hey, don't go in the hut, don't touch the hut, don't look at the hut, keep going lonely little campers". We all burst out laughing. Katie is soft spoken and it was just priceless! Anyways, after dinner, Delia and I were sitting all by ourselves, all alone, outside our tent, enjoying the views, but sulking a bit when all our mates came to visit - whisky and cups in hand! We grabbed more stumps and circled around - Delia and I were so impressed. It is funny how you can meet people on a tramp as complete strangers and within 1 day you become close friends......hmmmmmmm........nice! They continued to tease us to make sure that we did not go near the hut, but mainly just shared more stories and laughed. When the hut ranger came by to collect our camp tickets, we jabbed back saying that the hutters were interlopers on our campsite and wasn't she going to do something about it - she was not as jovial and the joke was totally lost on her. But as with all good things, they come to an end. As Delia and I sat there and looked at the empty stumps where our friends sat, we smiled and thought just how lucky we are!!! The night after that was uneventful, but it was cosy, warm and well, no "hut snoring" to deal with...I guess there are some good things with camping! Got up early next day to pack (tent wet) and head out for day #3. It was a shorter day then the previous days, but still had some decents involved. I am a simple person, but one of my favourite moments on the hike was at the end of day 3 when we reached Lake Manopouri. Delia and I really enjoy hiking on our own, but with the bond that we made with the gang, you looked forward to seeing them at the hut to share stories. At the end of the hike, it was all in the woods up until the time you reached the hut; which was an open space overlooking Lake Manopouri. When we reached this opening to the woods, Jennifer was standing on the deck of the hut and gave a little wave and smile and I looked up and returned the wave and smile - simple, I know, but it touched my heart. It goes back to the friendships that develop in such a short period of time - it is purely based on circumstances and Delia and I are so lucky that way. Once settled into the hut (we regained our hut privileges *grin*), we went for a swim - a little chilly, but not too bad - refreshing and felt good after 3 days of no shower!!! After the dip, the group of 8 of us sat around the picnic table and chatted and had fun taking group photos........they are lucky they were not subjected to my pyramid shot - next time! We ate dinner played cards and headed for bed. We agreed that we would meet at the end and go for a beer in Te Anau at the Fat Duck. Woke up again to fabulous weather, had a nice relaxing hike out and as agreed, we all met at the end. As David, Jen and Karen had to head out, it really was a quick drink, but agreed to meet up again on the Friday at the same place for dinner; except for Katie as she would not be in town! I hate to sound like a broken record, but we really did get along so well and just had a riot! We were not abnoxious by any means, but we were not quiet either; we ended up closing the place - they had to kick us out - now that is fun! Delia and I were staying in Te Anau as we had 2 more hikes planned in the area, so when we went back to the Fat Duck a few days later, the owner asked where the rest of our group was. She couldn't believe that we were not all travelling together as friends and family and that we just met on the track, she was flabbergasted. Delia and I will enjoy each moment as they come, but after the Kepler Track, we wondered how anything could top or even match our time, the hike, views and the people were outstanding! When Delia and I left for our trip, our friends asked us what we were looking forward to the most. And even though the places and the views that we were going to see was important, the thing that I was looking forward to the most was meeting people. And I have to say, I feel that even more now. Meeting people, like our group on the Kepler, can mean the difference between awesome to downright breathtaking and unforgetable!!! Although we are not sure when our group will ever meet up all together again, we will keep in touch. In fact David, Jen and Karen insisted that when Delia and I got to Auckland, we would stay with them! We did not want to wish our trip away, but we were definitely looking forward to seeing them again. Next on our the agenda was the Milford Track - this is New Zealand's most world famous hike in the south island - most popular anyways. Not sure how it could possible match the Kepler, but we were willing to give it a shot. It was back to Bob & Maxine's for 2 nights of recovery and to re-stock for our next tramp!