Over the next 2 days, we shopped for food, re-packed and went to the DOC to pick up our park passes. Since we had such a good experience on the previous hikes with the hut stays, we tried to change our camping tickets for hut tickets. The Routeburn Track was only 3 days and 2 nights, but it was still last minute so were not sure of our chances. We were not able to stay at the Routeburn Falls hut as they were full, but there was room at the Routeburn Flats Hut and there was room in the MacKenzie Hut (well, with a bit of wrangling from the DOC staff on the QT - she was great). This was great and because we couldn't get into the Routeburn Falls Hut, this only meant that it was a short hike on the first day and a slightly longer hike on the second day - this was no problem at all. We were a bit disappointed as the Routeburn Falls Hut was prettier and we would probably have a better chance to meet people, but it really was no big deal and as we have definitely learned by now - everything happens for a reason and we have NEVER been disappointed!!!
The Routeburn Track was actually the furthest away from Te Anau, so having a shorter hike on day 1 was actually a good thing. We had to take 2 buses with about a 2 hour wait period in Queenstown. The drive was beautiful and as we got closer to the trailhead, the area progressively got more deserted - the fields got larger and civilization got less. It was a cool feeling. To keep it a little bit shorter, I will minimize (not eliminate) the scenery descriptions and leave that for the pictures, which unfortunately will not do it justice either, but you will just have to trust us on that one - or better yet, come see for yourselves!!! At the start of the track, it was just Delia and I and a father and son - so quiet - I just love NZ!!! The hike was short and pretty much flat the whole way, but I must warn you, New Zealand does not do "flat" well *grin* - the land of mountains - you are usually going up or you are going down! We made it to our hut and it was cute & definitely quiet, most people do not stay at this hut. The hut was beside a river, between two mountains on a very large, flat area; hence the name, Routeburn Flats Hut! There was one other couple; older, English couple, there, but that was it. We walked around, took some pictures and relaxed before dinner. At that point it was early afternoon. Not expecting any more people or action, I sat down and wrote in my journal of the days activities. I usually wait until the next day to write about our night, but just assumed that it would be dinner, sleep and up early to start on our long day to the second hut..........hmmmmmmm.......now, what fun would that be - *grin*??? As we were sitting in the hut, a guy (Glen); noticeably in distress and out of breath, swings open the hut door and asks where the Hut Ranger is.....it did not sound good, but we did not want to interfere unless otherwise asked; very difficult for Delia as you know. Anyways, Delia told him where the Hut Ranger was (an eccentric woman - another story, for another time) and sat in waiting in case anyone needed her help. It was awhile later, when the first guy returned back and this time there were 3 women (Liza, Rachel and Andrea) with him. Being a small area and no one else around, it was not inappropriate to ask what was happening. At this time, they did not know all the details, but proceeded to tells us what they knew. The guy and 3 women were actually a group of 6. Three couples from Auckland; friends travelling together. They had their own mix ups and travel stories just getting to the trailhead, which led to their latter start to the track. Anyways, about 45 minutes into their hike, they saw a man that had slipped from one of the swing bridges. He was about a 40 - 50 year old man, hiking on his own just for the day, attempting to get in the perfect position to take a picture, when he fell. Now, before you start to judge him - have you never tried to get into a slightly unsafe position to take an awesome shot? Personally, I think he was irresponsible and a bit of a jerk knowing the whole story, but I have to give him the benefit of the doubt as I don't know for sure what the details were, but with any activity or adventure you just have to follow the rules; basically, just try not to be an idiot. Most accidents occur when you go somewhere that you shouldn't be or do something that you shouldn't be doing - I think most people would agree with that. Ahhhh, but I digress. To continue the story, he fell about 30 feet onto the river's edge with a tree canopy over top and of course shallow and rocky. He was obviously injured badly (apparent by one half of his lower part of his leg moving independently from the other half; moving back and forth with the current of the river - yikes) and unable to get himself back up the ridge. The six of them stopped to help (and later another couple), but with those circumstances they were unable to get to him or up either. The only option was to have one person run back to get the Hut Ranger and the others stay behind for morale support. And this is exactly what happened. So to end, it was 6 hours later, 3 helicopters, 2 paramedics, 2 other rescuers, the Hut Ranger and 5 helpful bystanders (and did not hurt that 4 of them were big, strong men) later that got him up. The first helicopter was unable to get low enough with the tree canopy over the canyon. So the 2 rescuers climbed down the canyon (hooked up to safety ropes of course), put the man in the stretcher and then everyone pulled the stretcher up to an area where the helicopter could access him and then they winched him up. We later found once we were off the track that he had a compound fractured leg, broken arm and had a concussion, BUT he lived! He was so lucky! But because of his misfortune, we were able to meet the Kiwi couples (Glen and Liza, Rachel and Hamish, Andrea and Bret and the other couple; Andy and Nathalie). We got to know them well and hung out after that - they were incredibly funny and nice - But of course, they are Kiwi's - we wouldn't expect anything less!
The next day got back on the track early as we had a long day. The Routeburn Flats Hut was off the main track about 1 km. Once we got back to the main track, this is where we met 2 men. As we approached them, I saw that they had day packs on, I also know that they did not stay in the hut, so the only explanation is that they started that morning from the trailhead. The latest they could have left to get to that point was 5:30am and most likely they would have had to leave by 5am. Sure it was possible, but I was shocked. Anyways, we did talk and like all Kiwi's they started the conversation by teasing us - you know, just to get us to laugh! They told us that they were hiking the whole track in 1 day! Now, the Routeburn is only 33 km and I know people even run the track, but it is an alpine crossing and it isn't what I would refer to as an easy hike. And just to add salt to the wounds, one man was in his 60's and the other man was 82. I have to say that in New Zealand, people just "do". It doesn't matter if it takes you longer or if you have ailments - they just "do" - impressive! After seeing the people hiking in Tasmania of ALL ages and ALL shapes and sizes, I was pleasantly humbled! My ego got crushed a little, but it was a good thing - I got over it. But, if my ego got crushed in Tasmania, it was completely obliterated when I got to New Zealand. I was just so impressed with the variety of people that just got out there and did some pretty difficult hikes......I am just saying.....fitness is only a small portion of your abilities - anyone can pretty much do whatever they want to do - you just have to want to do it and you just do it to your own abilities; fast or slow, life is not a race!!!
The Routeburn Falls Hut was beautiful, but not so much for the hut (although the hut was nice too), but mainly because of the views - gorgeous falls and views of the mountains. We stayed for a bit to enjoy and then continued on; we had a long day ahead. Since we started our adventure, Delia and I have learned things about each other. I know after 18 years you would think you know everything, but there is always things to learn, you just have to listen and spending 24/7 with someone for 5 months, you have an opportunity to listen more! As we did our hikes, Delia did realize how important hiking was to me and although I had to learn that more is not always better, sometimes, it was important for me to do it. Maybe to see, maybe for exercise, maybe for the challenge; whatever it is, it is in my heart and sole. But Delia's knees, ankles and feet are not always able to tolerate the side trips; especially if they are up and down mountains. So, it was a matter of compromise and that is what we did on the Routeburn more than any other track. There were 2 side tracks that I wanted to do and they happen to be in spots where there was a shelter so Delia could have a comfortable place to stay to wait and socialize and both were within an 1 1/2 return - this was a reasonable compromise. The first side track was on Day 2; climbing Conical Hill. I wouldn't have been too disappointed if I didn't do it, but the weather was perfect and they say that you could see the Tasman sea and the mountains from the top. It was a little steep, but the views were gorgeous and so worth it. The great thing about it, is that Delia is so great at meeting people that she can always entertain herself. As I was coming down Conical Hill, but still fairly high up, I saw Delia sitting on the deck of the shelter beside two people and I heard was uncontrolled laughter.....ahhhh yes, Delia's specialty. I never did find out what she was saying to them, but all I know is Delia definitely has an art of making people laugh and feel good about themselves - that is a gift! And like I say, "A Happy Delia is a Happy Brenda"!
The track just kept getting better. The views, the serenity, the friendships - I could go on forever. The hut was beside a lake and when we arrived and got our things set up, we found our own spot on the lake and sent for a dip; refreshing, but chilly!!! We sat there on our own and just enjoyed the sun, the views and the quiet - it was a moment that I wanted to last forever.
That afternoon and night we socialized with the Kiwi's, joked, shared stories and just had a great time. We took our time in the morning as our bus did not arrive at the Divide until 3:15pm. I would rather spend more time on the track then waiting for the bus; even though the views from the Divide our gorgeous too - it is just the lack of civilization that I love! On the last day I did the side track up the Key Summit - not as impressive as Conical Hill, but still nice. We finished the hike and chatted with the Kiwi's before we had to leave.
Just to finish the Routeburn with a funny story - well, I think it is funny. "Tramping in New Zealand" by the Lonely Planet was a book that we used religiously. It had great details of the tramps and how to organize your travel. When I was reading the book, I found a really funny story and thought that I would use that story in my blog as by that time, most likely people would be tired of listening to my chatter, but then on the Routeburn, I found my own funny story to tell - sorry! If you want to read the Lonely Planet story - I will be happy to share it with you, but for now, you have to listen to mine!!! It has to do with chocolate and hiking. Here it goes. A friend of ours from home has a girl and twin boys. As most good mothers, she always tried to limit the TV/Movies that they watched and encouraged them to play more or read, etc. One time, the family decided to drive to Florida. Having 3 young children, the concept of having a DVD player in the van seemed pretty attractive - so they agreed they were going to use this to entertain the children on the long driving journey. So after the 3 kids finish their first movie, the mother looks back and says to them, "Okay, which movie would you like to watch next?" Well, all 3 children's eyes went big as saucers, not believing their ears and replied, "We get to watch another movie?" Well, I just thought that was priceless and it was when I was walking on Day 3 of the Routeburn that this story came into my mind. I love to train, but I also love to eat, so I ask Delia to help me out. If I get tempted by sweets (my weakness) or some other vice she helps me out, by reminding me that I probably should not have it. So, whenever I eat junk food, I always hear Delia in my ear (sometimes works, sometimes does not *grin*), but on the track, because we are working so hard and eating is a necessity, we can make our own trail mix and mine always includes m&m's or chocolate covered almonds. So as I was hiking and reaching into my "goodie bag" of chocolates, I was reminded of this story. I was like a 5 year old happy that they can watch another movie........"I get to eat more chocolate?"!!! It made me laugh anyways as I was huffing and puffing up the mountain!
As much as being clean feels good and sleeping in a bed is awesome, and the hiking is hard, there is nothing like hiking in the mountains - I just did not want it to end! I know that I keep saying that, but it is true - I just love it!
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